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A Memorable Stay at Château de Bagnols, France

・ Updated 2025 ・

Staying at Château de Bagnols in France was one of the most memorable travel experiences. This fall 2002 trip to Europe was not my first, nor my last. There’s just something about Europe, or at least the places I’ve visited that always warmed my heart. On this particular trip to France, Monaco, and Luxembourg, an outstanding highlight was the beautiful Château de Bagnols in the wine region of Beaujolais.

Since then, life has changed dramatically and the château has also changed management and ownership a few times, just another part of its long history since 1217.

Updating this travel blog, I’d love to take new photos. The ones you see here are actual prints from my 35mm film camera. More prints are in storage… maybe I’ll take another look the next time I go to my storage unit. Things look so different after some time. I still have so many negatives. which I want to scan – looking at this scanner to digitize all my negatives.

First, Paris

Before the sojourn in this historic place, it was the City of Lights. Days there were spent at museums, cafés, art galleries, gardens, and landmarks, watching the world go by and capturing it on rolls and rolls of film. Like many others have remarked, the Mona Lisa is smaller than expected, even when up close at the front of brave crowds.

The Thinker in the gardens of Musée Rodin was bigger than I thought. Skip the line at the Musée Rodin or pre-book a private tour. Augustine Rodin (1840-1917) is probably most famous for the sculpture, The Thinker (1880), which was originally called The Poet. Another well-known work is The Kiss, which depicts the embrace of Paolo and Francesca from Divine Comedy, in the moment before death. Musée Rodin was once Hotel Biron, where Rodin lived. Here, you’ll find the collection of works he had donated.

Another museum I love, one I had visited previously, is Musée D’Orsay. Housed in what was a train station, this museum probably has the largest collection of impressionist paintings. If you love Renoir, Manet, Monet, and the other masters, this is the place for you. You’ll probably also really enjoy a tour. This 2.5 hr small group tour is highly-rated

The building itself is quite something else. Once the Gare D’Orsay, it sits on the Left Bank of the Seine and was built in Beaux-Arts of the 19th century. Its original structure was maintained, including the arched glass canopy. Ah, and all the natural light. I remember that.

Favourite memories include strolling from the Louvre and sitting in Jardin des Tuileries, so excited to be in Paris. Every street and alleyway was full of mystery and history. 

Flying in Europe is super affordable. Still, one of the best ways to travel for me is by train. Here are more of my train adventures. The rail is so well connected – check out Rail Europe. It’s partnered with more than 230 operators. You can book tickets or get passes. The website shows comparisons between different companies for your destination and also has a lot of ideas to inspire your next trip.

Château de Bagnols

The Village of Bagnols France
Chateau de Bagnols France

The splurge on this trip was decidedly Chateau de Bagnols, just outside the village of Bagnols, not far from Lyon. Drying lavender hanging near the drawbridge entry greeted guests as they stepped back in time. The impressive grounds were beautifully manicured and tended, only a hint at its previous glory. 

While out on a walk in the rain-soaked gardens, the bed was turned down. The staff had laid out slippers by the bed and a choice of sparkling and still water, along with chocolates, on the bedside table. The fire was already roaring and a bottle of the chateau’s vintage was on ice. Château de Bagnols is one of the finest vineyard chateaus in the world. That bottle was beyond words, its memory still full of warmth and delight.

Book your fairytale stay at a French castle

The Aux Bouquets Apartment

The Aux Bouquets Apartment was beautiful and is still available to book, as one of the castle suites. The suite opens into a spacious sitting room with a marble fireplace and walls covered with flower frescos and murals. Through large windows, the autumn sun flooded the room decorated with antique red velvet furniture. The focus of the bedroom was a Louis XVI style “Lit à la polonaise” with gorgeous golden damask hangings. The marble bathroom had a sizeable bathtub for long soaks and the wooden throne-like commode was interesting. From their virtual tour, it looks like this commode is still there.

Aux Bouquets Apartment

That night, dinner was served in the Salles des Gardes, now part of the restaurant 1217, the name a nod to the year construction of the château began. This is a room of historical significance. To commemorate King Charles VIII’s visit in October 1490, a crown was cut into the large ornate stone fireplace of this dinning room. This was also where the revolutionaries met, thereby saving the château from destruction.

After a variety of appetizers and the start of many bottles of wine, the main faire arrived. The Pheasant. I haven’t had any before, or since. It was served in an impressive three courses, which was far more than I had room for. The taste of pheasant is fascinating, a new adventure in taste for me, especially as I was eating very little meat and poultry at that time. Far too full and far too tipsy, I longed to lounge in my own room. So the restaurant graciously delivered and set up room service dessert. Sitting by the fire, the night continued with delicious desserts and tea.

The weather was beautiful though even with the bright sunshine and occasional rain, it was far too cold to plunge into the pool for me. Since their renovation and restoration, the premises now include a spa, hammam, an indoor heated pool, and fitness centre.

Aside from exploring the hotel, be sure to take a walk to the charming village of Bagnols. The golden stones of the architecture came from the quarries that were once the life blood of the village. Wine-making still continues as its other heritage today.

Getting to Château de Bagnols

We booked a car from Lyon to the hotel, which is about 30 minutes. From Lyon Saint-Exupéry Airport, it’s about 45 minutes. The closest airfield is Frontenas, mere minutes away. You can also get there by train from Paris which is less than three hours. It’s also only 1.5 hours from Geneva by car. is about half an hour by car from Lyon, 2.5 hours by train from Paris.

Book your ride.

Lyon’s Hidden Alleyways

Traboules” or Lyon’s secret alleyways in the Vieux-Lyon and Croix-Rousse districts date back as early as the 4th century. Built inside buildings, they connect streets and allowed residents easy passage to and from the river. In the 19th century, these alleyways, which have spiral or circular staircases, provided traders to safely move through the streets with their goods. In the second world war, the Resistance used them. Between 400 – 600 are estimated to exist, with about forty the public can visit. Starting at the Croix-Rousse station, look for signs with an arrow and a lion’s head image. From the Vieux-Lyon station, the sign has a bronze shield. This is Lyon has additional details and information on a few more traboules to explore.

Photos : 35mm film

 

 

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