Returning home after 15 years was a rebirth, seeing my city with brand new eyes. Not only because Vancouver has changed a lot in the meantime, neighbourhoods being hippified, places returning to their Indigenous names, memory a bit hazy anyway since I had visited only a handful of time. I was in a different place in life. You could say I was a different person. Also, I wondered how well did I really know Vancouver?
I can certainly still find my way around the city, not so much in the suburbs and surrounding cities and towns. (We went to Fort Langley for the first time the other day.) Recently when my friend was here with her two kids, we went to Lynn Canyon (first time), the Powell Street Festival, Stanley Park, and Soap Dispensary on Main Street. And lots of Japanese food. Her daughter’s obsession is avocado rolls, with cream cheese and mayo.
So I started to re-explore my home city and then increasingly I was feeling tight around the collar, this travel itch. Out of the blue, this opportunity for a day trip south of the border popped up and I immediately responded. With my sister looking in on Luna for me, I was set to spend the day on Whidbey Island.
The funny thing is, I just came across Whidbey Island in Megan Griswold’s The Book of Help, which I was reading at the time. Another wonderful reminder of a synchronous world.
The Drive Down to the Border
Being August already here in Vancouver, sunrises are getting later and later, a difference that is noticeable. Now when I wake up at 5 AM to feed Luna, I stumble in the dark, not wanting lights to shock me into complete wakefulness plus I want to have less artificial light in my life.
That morning, I needed to be jolted awake, having been kept up late – very late – by Luna. Maybe she realized I would be gone the whole next day. I jumped into the car after 6AM, a little later than planned, with a full daypack, heavy with liquids and snacks. I checked again for my passport. I was glad I had packed the day before.
We were meeting at 8AM halfway between the border and Whidbey Island. I was relieved to see the border wait time at 10 minutes on the notice board. Then in the next few minutes, it suddenly jumped to 45 minutes. It wasn’t until 8AM when I finally rolled up to the immigration officer. We chatted a bit about my day trip and, so confident in his meteorology, he assured me that the sun would come out. Even as the rain was coming down. You know what? He was right.
Onwards to Whidbey Island
Before the trip, I duckduckgo’d Whidbey Island and looked for #whidbeyisland on Instagram. Surprisingly there was very little. I got the usual “what to do”, “best beaches”, and geographic info.
Whidbey Island’s Salish name is Tscha-kole-chy. It is the home to several tribes including the Swinomish, Squamish, and Snohomish. Less than 50 km north of Seattle, Washington, Whidbey Island has more than 65,000 residents, most of whom live in rural areas. Similar to Bermuda, this island is much longer than it’s narrow. Whidbey also drew other similarities, including its population size and having one main thoroughfare. I think back to those years Bermuda was home.
From Megan Griswold’s book, I already got the idea that Whidbey Island is an artist’s colony. I was soon to find out the amazing earth work that goes on as well. Walking through a friend’s lands and the Earth Sanctuary, the energy of relatively untouched forest is amazing to behold and to stand in.
Salmon Woman
Our first stop was Rosario Beach, to visit with The Maiden of Deception Pass, Ko-kwahl-alwoot. These lands are the traditional territory, also including the Fidalgo Island, Lopez, and the Orcas, of the Samish Tribe, a Coast Salish and a nomadic water people.
In 1847, there were 2,000 living in the village. This number dwindled to 150 by the time of the Point Elliott Treaty signing in 1855. Due to some error, they lost legal status in the 1960s. It wasn’t until 1996 that their federally-recognized indigenous state was restored.
At this beach, a red cedar carving stands for the story of the sacrifice of the salmon woman for her people.
The Legend of the Maiden of Deception Pass
Ko-kwahl-alwoot is a beautiful maiden and the sea falls in love with her. One day a watery hand reaches out to her, as she is following “jumping clams” deeper into the sea. He tells her she is the most beautiful woman. Over time, he tells her about the beautiful world he lives in and asks her to join him.
When her father, who believes she will die in the sea, refuses to allow their marriage, the sea becomes angry, proclaiming he will no longer feed their people. True to his word, the sea becomes empty of salmon and clams, until finally her father concedes. Ko-kwahl-alwoot is willing to sacrifice for her father, family, and people. And as promised, Ko-kwahl-alwoot returns for one day a year so her father knows she is happy. With each visit, her time on land becomes more and more difficult and they fear her death each time. In the end, her people release her from her promise to return.
They say that Ko-kwahl-alwoot lives eternally in the seas, which remain abundant with food. The spring water is always sweet and her kelp hair flowing with the tide.
You can read the legend of the Maiden of Deception Pass, as told by Charlie Edwards in 1938.
You may have heard how carvers work with their material, their medium, to express what is hidden. To release the spirit. whether it is marble or wood, as in this case. In the video above, they speak of how they waited to carve, respecting the wood, the bark, seeing how the maiden wants to emerge. Carver Tracey Powell recalls also seeing the three-dimensional being inside.
Rosario Beach
The four of us stood in silence to connect with the maiden, to hear her messages. I saw a crystal beneath her, a sparkling jewel that was the sea. Others were called to lead us to walk around the carving and to connect to the earth and soul stars. Barefoot, I made my way, digging into the cool earth, my feet spontaneously making various marks in the ground.
We then made our way to Rosario beach. I stood in the water, watching the kelp below. It felt so good standing there in the cold water. I used to take my dogs Abby and Lou to the beach and this reminded me of them and our time together.
As we sat on the log, exchanging stories, picking up pebbles, and staring into the guardian faces of the rock face across the water, we watched the families that came down to the beach with their dogs. Kids clothed in hoodies and gum boots. The sun had yet to make its full entrance.
Where do you call to take a dive into the new? To believe in a world so beautiful yet so different that it takes heart to enter? What parts of yourself are you deceiving into non-existence that can now be released into the purifying water, through the geometric portals now in the dirt and sand?
Deception Pass Bridge, Whidbey Island
Our next stop was a friend’s place. Before that, we had to cross the narrow Deception Pass Bridge, which now connects Whidbey to Pass Island previously accessible by ferry. The waters are deceptive and risky to navigate, though heavily used by both commercial and recreational boats. As we drove over Deception Pass, we allowed any and all deceptions – perceived, self-created, and experienced – to dissolve into the water below, churning in the tides.
Freeland & Langley
We visited a friend on her amazing land, where she had created quite a sanctuary. Surrounded by a beautiful art collection and an obvious love of birds, especially owls, we sat and chatted about her work, plans, and our day trip. We drew cards from her deck, reflecting the intention and experiences so far on this day of August 9. Prior to me joining the group, they had begun 8.8 at Mount Baker, a journey that would culminate in the Orcas Islands.
With plans to meet her birthday-girl mom, our host bid us farewell after showing us the Peace Tree. We each wrote a peace prayer, which we then tied to the cedar.
Next, with a healthy appetite, we headed to Langley, “The Village by the Sea”, for lunch. The sun shining, our table on the outdoor patio of Prima Bistro was perfect. French-inspired Northwest food. There were a lot of choices, even accounting for all the non-burger and non-meat options. A fickle and demanding stomach called for a quick decision and essentially I ended up with fish & chips. Semolina crusted rock fish, fennel-red onion slaw, french fries, caper remoulade. I guess not associating rock fish with fish & chips, the thought never even crossed my mind that that’s what I ordered. Thankfully, It was delicious.
The patio was lively with birds visiting for food and overlooked the main street and the ocean beyond. My friend’s sharp eyes found her a crystal shop.
The Earth Sanctuary
The Earth Sanctuary is indeed the vision of its founder, Chuck Pettis. The author of Secrets of Sacred Space, he has a plan to restore these 70+ acres to old-growth forests with its accompany biodiversity.
Entering the sanctuary is like stepping into another world. Judging from the number of cars, we were probably among the few walking the lands there, at least this late afternoon. It was quiet. Very quiet. Like they were waiting, waiting to see what we were up to.
The first stop was the Dolmen. Years ago, in Bermuda actually, I came across a book on the Standing Stones at Carnac. Older than Stonehenge, these 3000+ stones are found in this French village. There are many theories about standing stones and other stone structures, from the pyramids to Stonehenge to Easter Island. It’s pretty amazing to feel their energies. I have yet been to Carnac; it’s on my list. Easter Island, also on the list.
What is a dolmen?
It’s a structure of large slabs of stone that create a chamber. The vertical stones support a large horizontal one. This one at Earth Sanctuary is 20 tonnes and according to the website, the first to be built in the United States in modern times.
So each of us took our turn within the Earth Sanctuary dolmen. Inside are offerings, prayers, and pleas for help, with photographs, stones, and other mementoes. I sat inside and was called to face outward, touching the slabs of the cool stone in the afternoon heat.
We then continued our walk. Next we sat by the bog, past the labyrinth. It’s amazing that so much life is here at the bog, when it appears so solid. So impenetrable. Yet there is fierce energy, of dragons and other beings.
Homebound to Vancouver
The sun was already in descent when we headed back to our friend’s place, deep in farmland. First, a quick bathroom break before heading home and a quick look at the sunset colours. With my car windows rolled down, I followed the road directions for this morning in reverse, going north. It was time to get back to Luna. I was glad my sister agreed to check in on Luna, especially since they don’t have the best relationship. She said it was mostly a stand off and hissing so she binged on Netflix, and had just left my place when I checked in with her.
I did consider stopping on the way for food, gas, and maybe some chocolate. With Luna on my mind, I headed to the border, playing by ear time-wise about dinner . With the morning border crossing unexpectedly and outrageously long, I wasn’t sure when dinner would be. When I arrived, the lines did not look any more promising. Slowing to a crawl, the traffic was impressive, on both sides of the border. It seemed like after all, I would have time to enjoy the sunset. I watched the sun sink lower and lower, the skies turning from pinks to oranges to illumined darkness.