Visitors to Kaua’i often choose Kapa’a in the east, Kōloa or Po’ipu in the south, or Hanalei in the north. What about the west side of the island?
The west was where we decided to “hang our hat” and kick off our slippahs. Moving here shifted our whole focus and lifestyle. While Kaua’i is a small island, we know people who’ve never been to the other side of the island. Previously living near Kapa’a going west and east was a day out. Now, from Kekaha, Hanalei is certainly a long way off. And Polihale not so much anymore.
We love the west side of Kaua’i for so many reasons. It’s a more quiet and chill part of the island. Our new place is close to the ocean and close to Wade’s favourite surf breaks. I can stand outside in the driveway and hear the ocean. It is an island so you can find surf spots pretty much everywhere. Not from here? Live aloha and live pono. Show respect to the people, the ocean, and the land. Find your flow, you’ll find your tribe.
With the flat roads in our neighbourhood, riding the bike to the post office is pure pleasure. And a way to cool off. It does get hot on the west side. On the way, I say hi to “Paco”, a dog we see alongside the road. We don’t know his name and just started calling him that. On the way home, I pick up fresh sushi from the store.
One of my favourite things living in the west is seeing both the sunrise and sunset. There’s nothing quite like it.
West Side of Kaua’i
Visitors to Kaua’i’s west side come primarily for Waimea Canyon, Kōke’e State Park, and Polihale State Park. Waimea Canyon, known as the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific,” is quite a sight. Continuing onto Kōke’e State Park means you can get amazing views of the Nā Pali Coast. These are definitely on the must-see list, if you had a list for Kaua’i. The west side is a very different place, more low key and much less crowded. There’s a vibe and it’s great if you catch it.
Polihale State Park, with the longest stretch of beach in Hawai’i, isn’t for everyone, logistically speaking. If there is any rain and you’re in a rental, it’s best to skip it. Otherwise, give yourself plenty of time to navigate unpaved roads and potholes. Maybe even camp there. My first time there was this past July, when we spent a day there. It’s worth it, if it works out on your trip.
Hanapēpē
The lush valley of Hanapēpē has been home to the Hawai’ians for centuries.
Hanapēpē Town, once a large and bustling community, is today known as “Kaua’i’s biggest little town.” Founded in the late 1800s by immigrants, Hanapēpē, unlike many other places, was not a sugarcane plantation town. After the Filipino, Japanese, and Chinese workers finished their contracts on the plantations, many came to this area and became farmers and opened businesses. Already known as a fertile valley, small farmers grew rice, taro, banana, sweet potato, and yes, sugarcane. They also traded for salt, from saltwater ponds. The salt flats in Hanapēpē are one of the few remaining in the islands.
Sacred Salt
“Paakai” meaning “to solidify the sea” is the Hawai’ian word for salt. It is sacred and can only be traded and gifted, not sold. The dark red salt, produced because of the island’s iron-rich oil, is used in ceremonial and spiritual work and is believed to ward off negative energies. Colours from white to pink are also produced, all of which can be used for cooking, medicine, and spiritual use.
The tradition of salt-making goes back centuries for the native Hawai’ians and the right to harvest continues to be passed down the families. In Kaua’i, twenty-six families continue this legacy. Salt-making is a multi-step process that requires hard work and dedication. Over time, the amount of salt available has gone down. People used to be gifting 5-gallon buckets, and now, a handful. Aside from fewer families still working the salt flats, environmental changes are also a factor. Driving on the beach, for example, reduces the barrier between the ocean and the flats. This contributes to flooding and contamination.
These days, Hanapēpē is known as an art centre, with galleries and local shops. It’s got its vibe. The Friday Hanapēpē Art Night returned July this year, after a hiatus since March 2020. This festive weekly event includes music, late store opening hours, and food. A participating restaurant I’ve been wanting to try is Japanese Grandma’s Café. Located in a building that was the USO during the last world war, this restaurant serves “authentic Japanese.” (Authentic is only in parentheses because I haven’t gone to verify and many people boast authentic food.
Hanapēpē Swinging Bridge
The Hanapēpē Swinging Bridge is another attraction for tourists. Built originally in 1911, this wooden pedestrian bridge connects the town to the nearby fields and surroundings on the west bank of the valley. Walking on this bridge, over the Hanapēpē River, as it gently sways and rocks is a highlight of visiting this historic town.
The swinging bridge is narrow, about three feet wide, and is made for pedestrian use. The maximum is fifteen people and the courtesy is to wait for everyone to walk through before getting onto it. The other side is a residential area so many visitors actually only walk part way on the bridge, out of courtesy.
Visit Hanapēpē | Japanese Grandma’s Café | Hanapēpē Art Night
Waimea
Waimea means “reddish waters.” When you visit the canyon, you’ll see why. In town, you can grab a red dirt t-shirt as a souvenir. This part of Kaua’i is historically significant. With Waimea Bay being the island’s first major port, this area was busy with trading. Waimea was once the largest settlement on the western coast. Like many towns in Kaua’i, Waimea was also a sugarcane town.
There are a few shops and places to eat in Waimea Town. Perhaps on the way to or from the canyon, stop by for shave ice at JoJo’s or a bite at The Shrimp Station. They have a lot more than shrimp. And if you’re ready for dinner, check at the Wrangler’s Steak House. The menu here is not only steaks. Also fish. We’ve gone a couple of times and going earlier, before they get busy, makes a big difference.
Further out of town, towards Kekaha, there is also a Chicken in the Barrel BBQ. This one is large, with both indoors and outdoors seating. There’s a beer wall so you can sample a few beers, as well as other drinks. It’s a great place to unwind.
We also love Ishihara Market (now closed), which sells a variety of poke and Japanese snacks.
The Shrimp Station | JoJo’s | Wrangler’s Steak House | Chicken in the Barrel BBQ
Waimea Canyon
People are often told to visit the canyon early because the skies tend to be clearer early on. Clouds can obscure the view later in the day. On my first visit to Kaua’i, three of us went to Waimea Canyon in the afternoon. We did skip the top lookout point, since it was overcast and close to sunset. I remember driving down the hill as it was getting dark, seeing white owls on the way. A transcendent experience, really.
➣ Visiting Kaua’i: South Shore and Waimea Canyon
Since moving to Kaua’i, Wade and I have gone to the canyon a few times. While still living in the east, we played tour guide and showed his son and friends this side fo the island. We dropped them off at the trail that took them down to the river. The next time his son visited, we returned to show him the rest of the canyon and the spectacular views. There are many lookout points, including one where you can see Ni’ihau, an island only for Hawaiians and their guests. Now that we live in the west, we see the “Forbidden Island” every time we see the sunset.
While exploring Waimea Canyon State Park, we found a spot that we’ve dubbed “Redwood Grove”. While likely part of the hunting trails, for us, it is a quiet place to hang out, have a picnic, play music, and enjoy the cooler temperatures. The west side does get very hot and dry.
What I hadn’t had the chance to do is walk the Kaluapuhi Trail, the last forest path to the top. I looked this up in Tanis Halliwell’s book, The High Beings of Hawai’i. When she asked the guide about it at the ranger station, she got, “That’s the Kaluapuhi Trail in Kokee State Park. Menehune are known to frequent that trail.” I read this book before my 2019 visit and it’s been a while. Here, she met mo’okane who had planned a ritual for her.
“We live in the mountains. We broke away from the menehune that settled in the Wailua River Valley when the second wave of larger Hawaiians came from Tahiti. To keep our culture pure, we withdrew into remote, wild places such as here.” The mo’okane told her.
“On Hawai’i, we mo’okane have four main tribes: the river ones, mountain ones, beach dune dwellers, and the fourth is difficult to speak of, because you have no reference point for them. The fourth tribe – that you think of as devas – live in a subtler dimension than us. I’m speaking of devas of the wind and clouds and they are the strongest ones.”
One of their messages is – “Respect our vegetation! Don’t bring any more foreign species to our land, as we are having great difficulty maintaining our local birds, vegetation, and trees.”
Waimea Plantation Cottages
Our friends from O’ahu stayed at Waimea Plantation Cottages just outside of Waimea Town.
This resort has quite a history, with the first cottages being renovated as vacation rentals after 1982’s Hurricane Iwa. Built between the late 1880s and 1930s, the cottages are all part of sugarcane plantations along the coast. Our friends stayed at a cute garden view one-bedroom. We spent our time outside their cottage on the resort’s beautiful grounds. If you’re looking for a quieter place to stay, take a look at these cottages.
Our friends were only in Waimea a few days. They also booked a place up at Kōke’e State Park. If you want to do some hiking, the cabins may be a good choice for you.
Waimea Plantation Cottages | West Kaua’i Lodgings | The Cabins at Kōke’e
Kekaha
Kekaha is the last town on the west coast.
This is a small community that came together after Hurricane Iniki, from the stories we heard from our new friends and neighbours. On my sunrise and sunset walks, I’ve met many people, mostly surfers and people with dogs. This neighbourhood is also home to Evangeline Lilly, whom you may know from the series “Lost” or “Ant Man and the Wasp.” So yes, it’s a low key part of the island.
If you missed the road in Waimea up to the canyon, you can take the turnoff to Koke’e Road in Kekaha. Our car prefers this way up, and it’s super close to our place. If you stay on Route 50, it’s stretches of beach. There is the Kekaha Beach Park, which does have facilities. This is more of a locals beach. You’ll see a lot of keiki or kids here playing in the surf, boogie boarding, and surfing. The ocean is powerful here and the kids start young, being one with the ocean.
For many visitors, a more suitable beach is Salt Pond which is close to Hanapēpē. It’s named for the salt ponds here that the native Hawai’ians have used for generations. A cultural inheritance, these salt ponds belong to them.
Being enclosed by reefs, this beach offers protected areas for swimming and snorkeling. Off the main beach, there is also a smaller one with calm waters for the kids. Driving towards Waimea, after passing Hanapēpē River, take a left on LeLe Road and then a right into the parking lot. There are signs. If you keep driving, there is a third and the least well-known beach at Salt Pond Beach Park.
The end of the road, past Kekaha, is the military base; before that is an old cane road that takes you to Polihale. The 5-mile long unpaved and very bumpy road is worth it to be at this beautiful part of Kaua’i.
Before you get that far, next to the Kekaha Post Office is Thrifty Mini Market. This may be a secret and I’m sharing this gem with you. Like other shops, you can get the usual – drinks, chips, snacks, and alcoholic drinks. Also a small selection of produce, rice, noodles, sauces, and condiments. Like many people, we come here for poke and their fresh sashimi. Also their hot foods – plate lunch or a la carte – include beef stew, kaulau pork, pork lay lau, hamburger steak, tripe stew, smoked meat, and chili.
The west side of Kaua’i is unlike the areas visitors tend to stay in. While there are accommodations for tourists, options are low-key rather than big resort hotels. These provide a charming and quiet refuge from the world that is perfect for many people. The beaches are less busy, which can be an upside, though the ocean can be too powerful for kids and many swimmers.
For photographers? The west side is a dream.
If you do find yourself on the west side, stay for the sunsets.