We arrived in Trinidad the last week of April and it was cold.
From Richardson Grove, the plan was to drive through Avenue of the Giants. After several detours – sections of the road were closed for construction – it felt like resistance and so we got back on the highway toward Eureka. By the afternoon, we were pulling into an empty spot on L Street. Our “usual” parking when we go to Raliberto’s Taco Shop. And before we knew it, we were driving past Arcata and checking the campground at Sue-Meg Park.
Sue-Meg Park | Big Lagoon | Trinidad
Sue-Meg Park
We used to spend a lot of time at Patrick’s Point State Park, as it was known then. At the start of 2021, the Yurok Tribe requested that the name be changed back to Sue-meg (prounounced “Sue-mae”), the Yurok name for the area.
When the State of California purchased it in 1929, people had been calling it Patrick’s Point or Patrick’s Ranch. It’s likely attributed to the Irish homesteader, Patrick Beegan, who in 1851 claimed part of the peninsula and lived there a few short years. He was one of many settlers who came for the gold discovered in the Trinity River. After he was accused of the murder of a young Yurok boy in 1854, he fled to Bald Hills. A decade after, Patrick Beegan was also involved in a massacre of a Yurok village. His property was sold off after his continued evasion.
Sue-meg Park is 640 acres and a beautiful place to visit. It is a sacred place. We spent a lot of time walking through the many different parts, watching the stars at night. It’s where I lost – and found – Froggy, our drone and where we saw the comet NEOWISE a few years ago.
Along with the various lagoons, Patrick’s Point is one of Wade’s surf spots. He took me for a surf check one time and we watched from above, as he pointed out how you have to leap off the rocks. The waves and current here are powerful; not for beginners.
Patrick’s Point is Humboldt County’s premier big wave surf spot. It’s a gnarly, rocky, left that can reach 25 ft swells with the right conditions in the winter. Patrick’s Point is sheltered from the south wind so it’s good when other local surf breaks are closing out.
Wade often talked about camping here at Sue-Meg Park again and so for this trip we booked two nights in a cabin. As it was still early in the year, not all of the campground was open and the available campsites were already reserved. Sometimes people cancel so since we got to Trinidad a day ahead of our cabin reservations, we decided to take a look anyway.
Big Lagoon
With Sue-meg Park campsites all taken, we drove towards Orrick to check on Big Lagoon. I’ve been been here with Wade many times, for surf checks mostly. A narrow sand spit separates the lagoon from the ocean, which can breach it at the north end. One afternoon, we took his canoe out on Big Lagoon into the wetland and watched the birds.
In the 1980s there were reported sightings of “B.E.P.O. Beast” or “Big Elusive Primate Organism” at Big Lagoon. This includes a Trinidad local’s encounter at the boat ramp.
Big Lagoon is part of Humboldt Lagoons State Park, which also includes Stone Lagoon, Freshwater Lagoon, and Dry Lagoon, which was drained by hopeful farmers in the 1900s and is now a marsh. All belong to the largest lagoon system in the country. The Yurok name for this place is Chah-pekw Hee-koh.
By the time we got to Big Lagoon Campground, it was getting late. Still, a few campsites were available. Driving around a couple of times, we agreed on #20, which was close to the office/camp host’s place and bathroom facilities. #20 is popular with the birds, especially the blue jays.
While Wade went to get some firewood, I worked on setting up the tent. By now, I could handle the pop-up tent myself. It’s getting it squished back into its carrying case that I need help with.
By placing the tent at the open edge of the rectangular campsite and the car next to it, we created a nice privacy “fence”. I only realized how noisy it was to sleep right next to the gravel road when I was awakened repeatedly. I didn’t anticipate so much foot and vehicular traffic. Since it was only for two nights, it wasn’t a big deal.
Camping here at Big Lagoon was a very different experience than Richardson’s Grove, where we had just spent several days. The campsites here are much smaller, closer together, and mostly occupied whereas with just a handful of campers at Richardson’s bigger sites, it felt more private and relaxing. Being a much smaller campsite, Big Lagoon had fewer bathroom facility options, which also appeared older. Thankfully the abundant of firewood we got gave us warmth and cheer in the colder and damper weather.
Trinidad
With rain in the forecast, we were happy to be staying at a friend’s place for the rest of our stay in Trinidad. It also gave us a chance to do laundry, soak in a bath, and catch up on some work.
Trinidad State Beach
This state beach includes two beaches between Trinidad Head and Elk Head. The large rock, Pewetole Island, divides it into two coves, where we find the main beach in the south and College Cove. You reach this more secluded (and locally-known as clothing-optional) northern part of Trinidad State Beach via Stagecoach Road.
It was an overcast day when we went down for a walk. Being low tide, we could cross to the other side. First we crossed the stream and walked to the end, where the ocean came in from both sides. It was mesmerizing to see the waves converge in different patterns.
Shopping & Eating in Trinidad and Arcata
Arcata
Our favourite restaurant is Tomo in Arcata. So of course we went for dinner. It did not disappoint, with the escolar and other sushi we ordered. We also enjoyed some hot sake, sitting by the window at our sun-filled table. Sometimes we get the Tomodachi, sake and plum wine, which is available hot or cold. Tomo is located inside Hotel Arcata in the plaza, with entrances from inside the hotel and off G Street. It’s a popular spot and even being seated by 6PM, it was already rather busy, getting even more crowded while we were there.
Another stop in Arcata was Seapod Humboldt, a shop owned by Marnie, one of Wade’s friends. She was away on a surf trip so we didn’t expect to meet up. She creates original block-printed clothing and offers a curation of work by local artists. Sweatshirts, t-shirts, caps, and more in a variety of nature-inspired colours. Being a surfer herself, Marni offers a selection of new and pre-owned boards and surf gear. Located at 824 L Street, Seapod is a great stop to make. We also follow Marnie on Seapod’s Instagram and had a few designs I wanted to check out. Wade picked up some wax, thinking we’d be back to pick up a sweatshirt for ourselves.
While in Arcata we also went to Dead Reckoning Tavern (815 J Street). They offer rotating taps and bonus, sour beers. When we left in 2020, the pub was still closed, with the shop opened for pick up. We dropped by a few times to get sour beers. So it was fun to sit inside and grab some drinks to go.
For groceries? North Coast Co-op and Eureka Natural Foods.
Trinidad
Eating in Trinidad, we stopped at Beachcomber Café and Headies Pizza and Pour. The Beachcomer was bought by the Cathers in 2023 and has been renovated, with a new menu. Located next to Trinidad Town Hall and across from Trinidad School, it is on the street headed down to the beach. We stopped by after our walk at Trinidad beach for a bite to eat and something warm to drink, spending more time together before Wade’s son and his girlfriend leave for their flight home.
And Headies is where we grab our pizza. They offer gluten-free as well as vegetarian, which is great for me. While they have single slices available, we order a full pie that they make fresh. As usual, after putting in an order, we went to Murphy’s the grocery store down a few doors. If you’re in town, look for Larrupin sauce, a local favourite – a tasty mustard dill sauce. Also look out for fish- line-caught King Salmon and Albacore Tuna from the Trinidad-based MaClay family. You can also purchase these canned fish from their online shop.
