It’s been years since I’ve been to Los Angeles. Growing up, my family used to take holiday road trips to visit relatives in California. So I was excited to head south to meet up with my brother who was in town on a business trip.
I still didn’t have my California driver’s so Wade drove. The initial plan was to stay overnight, though mostly playing it by ear. From Central Coast, we were on the road early afternoon, only deciding on the trip that morning, and by 4:00 PM we were nearing Ventura. LA wasn’t far off, distance-wise. Along the way Wade pointed out surf spots, like Rincon.
The “Queen of the Coast” is a right-hand point break, shaped over time by Rincon Creek from up over in Ojai. Mostly flat during the year, it is a winter break, with three sections – the Indicator, The Rivermouth (or Second Point), and The Cove. It’s only sandy-bottomed near the Cove, with cobblestone rock elsewhere.
When the conditions are right, you can ride a wave that connects all three peaks. My father-in-law confirms that’s a Northwest swell during low tide. Since it’s a winter break, low tide is in the afternoon, which can mean fewer surfers out there. Otherwise, even being in a critical spot, people can still drop in on you. He’s surfed it a few times, with Wade, and it can get as busy as several hundred surfers out there.
Wade’s dad also shared that Wayne Rich, who shaped many of his boards and also Wade’s boards when he was competing, still surfs Rincon in his 70s.
Rincon Point
Queen of the Coast
Located between Santa Barbara and Ventura, Rincon, meaning “corner” in Spanish, was initially called “Three Mile”. It was three miles south of Carpinteria or about mid-way between this small town and La Conchita. The longest point break in California, Rincon became more well-known in the 60s. Surfer’s Magazine’s included it in its 1981 “Ten Best Waves in the World” list. Spanning over 40 years, Rincon Classic is a locals-only annual competition and community gathering, though there were years of dormancy since it was founded in 1979.
Part of Chumash territory, this was once a village called Shuku. In 2022, after two years of research and writing, Vincent Burns and Stephen Bates – both with familial ties to the area – published their book, Rincon Point, about the history of this area of 30 acres around Carpinteria. The book’s description includes this line – “Banditos, nudists, movie stars, long-boarders–they have all shaped Rincon Point, a place immortalized by novelists, poets, painters, photographers, and the Beach Boys.”
The West Hollywood Edition & Mediterranean for Dinner
My brother was staying at the Edition hotel in West LA, corner of West Sunset Boulevard and North Doheny Drive. This location is part of the Marriott collection in collaboration with hotelier Ian Schrager. The first was in Waikiki back in 2010, though it is now Modern Honolulu. Editions now include London, New York, Tokyo (Ginza and Toranomon), Madrid, Dubai, and many others around the world. The West Hollywood Edition is modern which I do love. My brother’s room was large and cozy, with a small balcony facing the city.
Wade grew up in Malibu (before it became Malibu) and easily navigated the way to Sunset Boulevard, driving through Beverley Hills and Brentwood. With confusing GPS directions, we at last located the rather tucked-away hotel and then a parking lot closeby. We didn’t know if we were staying the night in town. At any rate, this trip wasn’t about sightseeing.
As my brother was still getting ready (jet lagged and just waking up from a nap), we went to his room to catch up first. I was also curious about the hotel as I love looking at architecture.
After only Whatsapp chats and video calls, I was happy for Wade and my brother to finally meet. He and my sister-in-law are also expecting their first child and we were eager to hear more. Our mom’s first grandchild. I had bought a cute little sweatshirt at O’ahu’s Made in Hawai’i Festival that I was excited to give them. Since they made their announcement, I’ve been looking for gender-neutral gifts. Usually, I knit baby gifts. However, my mom, sister, and sister-in-law are way more skilled at it and undoubtedly, the baby will get a number of knitted treasures. My brother also took the opportunity this trip to stock up on basics like onesies.
Pi On Sunset
Discussion about dinner took a little time. My brother had asked our cousin for recommendations, some of which were closed that night. After a long flight and a long drive, neither my brother nor Wade was up for venturing too far from the hotel. So a few more ideas were off the table. Getting hungry, we decided to give Pi on Sunset a try. This restaurant serves Lebanese and Mediterranean cuisine. It is also a short walk to get there.
When we arrived, the restaurant was already quite full inside. Many people were enjoying Shisha, or Nargile, as the Lebanese call it. The hooka culture is now popular outside the Middle East, where it is part of the social fabric, as a way to relax and connect with others.
We found some seats outside and quickly ordered a spread. The food was delicious and it was easy to share and try some dishes that my brother ordered. One of his closest friends is Syrian-American and so my brother’s had many opportunities to sample authentic cooking. Good food, good company, good times.
The Viper Room
On the way back to the hotel, I did some accidental sight-seeing. We walked by The Viper Room. If it weren’t for a couple loitering outside and taking photos, I would’ve had no idea. We struck up a conversation and we walked together for another block.
I had a vague impression of why The Viper Room was a famous or infamous spot. Wade reminded me that’s where River Phoenix died from an overdose in the early hours of October 31 in 1993. He didn’t remember the date – I looked it up. River Phoenix was 23, and an icon from our times. He played Chris Chambers in 1986’s Stand By Me, the movie that made him a star.
Opened in 1993 by Johnny Depp (who sold his stake in 2004), The Viper Room was supposed to be a place where he and his friends could hang out without being hounded by the paparazzi.
Lots of musicians and bands played there. Michael Hutchence had his final performance in The Viper Room in 1997, just a week before his death.
This was also where from 2005 the “Poker Princess” Molly Bloom ran high-stakes poker games for her boss Darian Feinstein, co-owner of the infamous night club. It was called Cobra Lounge in the movie, Molly’s Games. Celebrities like Matt Damon and Leonardo DiCaprio played in these illegal Tuesday night games. They were the draw for billionaires.
