The Nu‘uanu Pali Lookout offers a panorama of the windward side of O’ahu. Today the view is of residential areas and golf courses. Once, it was terraced taro patches (lo’i), farms producing banana, rice, and sweet potato, and fishponds, lands that have been inhabited for 1,000 years. From 1857-1885, Queen Emma had the summer palace in the Nu’uanu Valley because of the cooler climate. This landmark and museum, Hanaiakamalana, is located on the way here from Honolulu. Places you can see at the lookout include Ho’omaluhia Botanical Garden, Kāne’ohe Bay, Mōkapu Peninsula, Ulupa’u Crater, and Kāne’ohe.

You can also see Mokoli’i Island, nicknamed “Chinaman’s Hat” due to its cone shape. Because of the straw hats early immigrants wore. You can visit this island by paddle board and kayak yourself or on guided tours. Apparently, at low tide and in calm conditions, it’s possible to safely walk out to the islet from Kualoa Regional Park and Campground. It’s about 0.4 miles each way so be sure to check the tide times and ocean conditions. Also watch out for sharp rocks – water shoes recommended.

According to legend, the goddess Hi’iak, Pele’s sister, killed Mokoli’i, a lizard-like demi-god. Hi’iak chopped off his tail and threw it into the ocean. Mokoli’i Island is that tail.

The Whistling Wind

“Pali” means “cliff” or “precipe” in Hawai’ian. Because the lookout is known for very strong trade winds coming through, Wade’s dad talked about how at times you can stand on the stone terrace and lean into the howling winds. Curious about the wind, we decided to come here before leaving O’ahu. From this beautiful scenic point, you can hear the wind whistling through the mountains.

Perhaps even the cries of lost warriors pushed off or leapt off the steep 1000-ft high cliffs. In 1898, while the highway connecting Honolulu and the windward side was being constructed, human remains were found. Workers discovered 800 human skulls and other bones believed to be the warriors.

Geologically, the Nu’uanu Pali is an interesting place. From the information at the lookout, a landslide about two million years ago caused half of the Ko’olau volcano to vanish into the sea. The lookout is on what remains of Ko’olau.

Ho’omaluhia Botanical Garden | Kāne’ohe | Kualoa Regional Park | Hanaiakamalana

The Battle of Nu’uanu of 1795

The Nu‘uanu Pali Lookout is historically significant for Hawai’i. The final battle for the islands began with O’ahu chief Kalanikupule and his 9,000 warriors and Kamehameha with his 12,000. The last stand, with 300-400 of Kalanikupule’s warriors, took place here. The Battle of Nu’uanu of 1795. This was the battle that led to the unification of all the islands into a single kingdom.

When Kamehameha (c1736-1761-1819) began his campaign, Maui’s King Kahekili II (1706-1794) held an empire of all the islands, except Big Island. When the fearsome Maui leader died in O’ahu, a civil war erupted. His eldest son Kalanikupule (1760-1795) emerged victorious against his uncle. With Kalanikupule’s army greatly weakened from his battle for power, O’ahu became vulnerable. Kamehameha’s fleet of 1,200 war canoes and western ships arrived early 1795.

According to Mysteries of Hawai’i, “tall, muscular men dressed in malo, holding spears or leiomano, the shark tooth weapon” have been seen at night here at the lookout. The old highway, built over ancient paths, also has many ghost stories. For more, you can take a tour with Lopaka Kapanui, the owner of Mysteries of Hawai’i or check out Chicken Skin Tales. In this book, Hawai’ian historian and folklorist Glen Grant (1947-2003) shares forty-nine stories based on first-hand encounters. He was also known for the Obake Files (ghost and supernatural stories) and for starting ghost tours on the island.

Although many of the stories contained in this collection refer to Hawaiian ghosts or ancient entities, this collection should not be misconstrued as a study of Native Hawaiian belief concerning the spirit world, either past or present.

These are public tales shared in the public arena concerning the common beliefs of all islanders as they have formed a new type of supernatural tradition in the last 150 years. Essentially, it flows from the soul of the people of Hawaii of all races, unbound by a criticism of superstition and free to express what is real and unreal on its own terms.

Glen Grant (quoted on 3AM Scary Stories: Obake Files

In any case, I’m not going to be visiting Nu‘uanu Pali Lookout at night.

Getting to Nu‘uanu Pali Lookout

From Kāne’ohe, where we were staying with friends, we took the Kahekili Highway toward Kailua, looping onto Likelike, and then right on Kamehameha. At Kalanianaole Highway, turning right is the Pali Highway. When the road splits, keep right onto Nu’uanu Pali Drive. There is a parking lot and the fee is $7. Hawai’ian residents are exempt.