You may have heard of Mt Shasta. What about Tenkawa in Japan? Maybe you’ve read the book Tenkawa : Super Psychic Spot (1986). Located in this comparatively remote village of Tenkawa is a power spot. Many people head up here, to the Dai-Benzaiten-sha Shrine to pay homage and respects to the Goddess of creative arts. Writers, artists, actors, musicians.
Others come to the Tenkawa shrine, hoping to spot a UFO. Or to check out the meteorites on the grounds.
It’s said that only those invited by Benzaiten can visit the Tenkawa shrine.
Tenkawa Dai-Benzaiten-sha Shrine
Benzaiten is the Buddhist Goddess of art, music, performing arts, water, harvests, fortune, and all that flows. Goddess of Eloquence. She was introduced to Japan from the 6th century through Chinese translations of the Sutra of the Golden Light. It was after a couple of centuries that she became a part of the Shinto religion. Many people also see her as the Hindu goddess Saraswati.
Tenkawa Dai-Benzaiten-sha Shrine is nestled in the foothills of the Ominesan/Mt Omine, south of Kyoto. A beautiful and fascinating place surrounded by nature. It was built in 700 by the founder of the Shugendo religion, En-no-Ozunu, after the goddess Benzaiten appeared to him.
This is one of the mother shrines of the goddess and one of the few Shinto-Buddhist shrines in Japan. This shrine is also linked by pilgrimage routes to three other sacred sites, together a UNESCO World Heritage Site (2004) known as “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range.”
One of the most curious things about this shrine is the UFO-shaped bell. Then, there are also the three meteorites. Instead of tolling this bell by pulling the rope up and down, you swing it. The bell is the sacred treasure that has been passed down. It gifts all who hear this amazing sound. If you love your omamori charm, you can get one in the shape of the bell. I have one, and is special to me.
The Purification Fountain or Chozuya
Near a shrine’s entrance, we find purification fountains, lined with wooden and metal ladles. A dragon water spout is commonly seen, bringing together the fire and water elements. Here we cleanse our mouths and hands. Fill a ladle and rinse your left hand, then right. Pour some into your cupped hand and rinse your mouth. Spit out the water and dispose what remains in the ladle by allowing the water to flow down the handle beside the fountain.
You will also see an offering box, maybe with a bell or gong. The etiquette is to bow then throw some coins into the box, ring the bell or gong if there is one, bow twice, clap your hands twice, and bow once more before your prayers.
Tea Ceremony
We were at the Tenkawa Shrine celebrating 10/10/10 and the shrine was busy with activity. It felt like a special day, and we witnessed many rituals, celebrations, and special events on our visit.
The annual festival at the Shrine is held in the summer. If you do go, be sure to catch the Noh (能, Nō) performance. This art dates back to the 14th century. The actors in rich costumes don masks to represent different spirits, telling stories through song and dance. The themes of the Noh performances are usually supernatural, otherworldly, and often legends or historical or literary events.
While we did not get to experience such a performance, we were invited to a tea ceremony. Here, too, movements are specific and precise and in deep reverence. The traditional clothing added even more weight, continuing an important tradition that comes from an unbroken lineage. Most of the women there also came in their formal wear, in such a range of colours and patterns.
Fire Ceremony
That night we walked into Tenkawa village, where we stumbled onto a fire ceremony. We watched as they built the wooden walk with logs and planks. The crowd of locals and tourists steadily gathered and the fire grew, the smoke rising into the heaven. A mix of solemnity and excitement.
And there was another energy. As human eyes focused centre stage on the fire, non-visible beings were emerging from the depths of the forests around us. It was palpable. Even as I focused on photographing the event and on the fire and brave fire walkers, unaware I would soon join them, I could feel the shift. I could not help but keep returning my gaze to the trees and the water beyond.
It’s funny; I don’t remember much about the fire walk itself. Even now as I write about such a momentous feat, doubt rises – did I really walk over the fire? I know that I was not barefoot.
After we walked over the fire, wordlessly, naturally, our group gathered. We stood at the edge of the stream and the trees, each sensitive to the heaviness. As a group, we did release work to support any spirit ready to return to the fold.
Other Stops after Tenkawa Shrine
Ishibutai Kofun
Dating back to the Asuka period, the Ishibutai (石舞台) Kofun (古墳) is a stone tomb. The largest known megalithic structure in Japan at 177 feet, it is located in the Nara Prefecture and believed to be the tomb of Soga no Umako. This feudal lord was instrumental in introducing Buddhism to the country and also ignited a religious war.
It was during the Asuka period that Japan changed its oldest recorded name of Wa (倭) to the one we are familiar with today, Nihon (日本). According to the website Exploring the Footsteps of Heroines of Asuka, women, including five empresses, played important roles as Japan transformed into a nation. The impact and role of women are so often glossed over and buried. Thankfully so much documentation and stories are emerging.
We arrived in the beautiful light of day and disappeared into the cavern space of the rock structure. If you didn’t know what this was, you may have given a short pause, noted that it was probably something interesting, and kept on walking. Yet the energy within and the light filtering through was pure magic.
Getting to Tenkawa
Take the Kintentsu Kyoto line from Kyoto and disembark 17 stops later at Kashihara Jingu Mae station to switch to the Kintetsu Yoshino line. At the Shimoichiguchi station, take the Nara Kotsu bus. Your stop is the Tenkawa Kawai. Check the schedule for departure and arrival times as the bus to Tenkawa does not run daily.