Before I left for my trip to Hong Kong, we drove down to Los Angeles for a few days and had a few good meals. Here are the three cuisines we had – Hawai’ian, Japanese, and Peruvian.

Ali’i Hawaiian Grill

We were driving through Manhattan Beach when we spotted a possibility. It wasn’t clear it was opened. Doubling back, we looked for parking in the back. Ali’i Hawai’ian Grill sits between Big Wok Mongolian BBQ and India’s Tandoori. Two options that also sounded good.

The menu was Hawai’ian favourites – poke, loco moco, musubi, mac salad, Hawai’ian Sun…

While we ordered our food, we chatted with the guy behind the counter. He’s from the Big Island and the owners are also Hawai’ian.

The food was tasty and fresh. The service was friendly and fast. The atmosphere, relaxed.

Ali’i Hawaiian Grill
924 N Sepulveda Blvd
Manhattan Beach, CA 90266
(424) 237-2030
aliihawaiiangrill.com

Sugarfish

Thanks to Wade for googling a few Japanese restaurants. He landed on Sugarfish, which has multiple locations and is a quick drive away.

There is plenty of street parking a block or so away from Sugarfish. Bear in mind that they don’t take reservations. When we arrived, it was a crowded waiting room. The line, however, moved quickly and the host soon led us to our seats at the bar.

Nozawa’s mission for 40 years remained simple: bring traditional Japanese sushi to America. Sounds easy, but when your product is the result of thousands of years of Japanese culture that has raised the art of simplicity to the pinnacle of creative expression, you learn that mastering the art of simple sushi demands a lifetime of commitment.

Sugarfish

We both ordered a set – Trust Me and The Nozawa Trust Me. The menu includes a la carte; these sets offer a variety of fish and the size was perfect for the both of us. Sitting at the bar, we enjoyed the experience in the quietly bustling restaurant. Facing the kitchen window, we watched the going-ons – the co-ordination, the quick service, etc. Diners were laughing, eating, and conversing with friends and family. The atmosphere was light and friendly.

Good Rice

Sushi chef and co-founder/owner Kazunori Nozawa is not new to the scene and opened Sushi Nozawa in Los Angeles in 1978, at a time when Japanese cuisine dif not enjoy the popularity and acceptance it does these days. According to the Sugarfish website, Nozawa gets up at 4AM to be first at the fish market, a ritual he’s had for decades. The market actually opens earlier for him so he does get to select his fish first in LA.

When I took my first bite, wow. And also I immediately noticed and relished the rice. In Central Coast, Asian restaurants often serve gross rice. Dried, overcooked, undercooked, old rice…to the point where I’ve given up on good rice.

And it’s not surprising that the rice was so delicious at Sugarfish. They take their rice seriously. Staff makes rice every half hour and unused portions doesn’t get served. This is how they described their process –

“The rice we serve with our sushi is noted for its warm, loosely-packed consistency, so we work hard to find just the right kind. We examine each and every batch of rice we order. We look for moisture, and the right amount of “chalk” content, which can mean the difference between heavy, starchy rice or rice that turns out fluffy, flavorful, and with good separation of fully bloomed grains.”

To get the right rice-cooker, Sugarfish invested plenty of money and funds to get small-capacity cookers that are certified for restaurant use.

It’s rare to find so much information about a restaurant’s process on their website. So very interesting, it’s a must-read.

Perhaps because of the ubiquity of sushi joints, we’ve forgotten – or not realized – the masterful skills of a sushi chef.

Sugar Fish
304 12th Street
Manhattan Beach, CA 90266
(424) 675-7644
sugarfishsushi.com

El Pollo Inka

Wade saw this restaurant when we drove by earlier and decided to give it a try.

To be honest, we weren’t so sure as it looked more like a fast-food restaurant. When we were greeted by the friendly staff, it felt like a good place to try. There were already about six tables and the food looked good. I ordered the Aguadito soup or Peruvian chicken soup and cilantro rice though the ceviche was tempting. And Wade had the spicy chicken, which he loved. Both our meals were delicious. I mean, I really enjoyed the green soup, its colour from copius cilantro.

With the restaurant’s name as El Pollo Inka, you know they are known for their chicken. Reading the reviews, their Peruvian food is authentic.

Sugar Fish
150 S Pacific Coast Hwy, Ste G El Segundo, CA 90245
(310) 616-3036
elpolloinka.com

The Japanese Link

Hawai’ian. Japanese. Peruvian. The Link.

Economic conditions in Japan resulted in mostly men leaving to seek better opportunities overseas. In the 1880s, Japan and the Kingdom of Hawai’i came to an agreement due to a demand for workers on the sugar plantations in the Hawai’ian islands. Chinese migrations were being restricted due to the islands’ growing reliance. In 1924, the US Government passed the Asian Exclusion Act which made citizenship impossible for both Chinese and Japanese residents.

Decades after, Japanese also left for Latin American countries, starting with Peru. After Brazil, Peru has the largest population of Japanese descent. Like with Hawai’i, the Japanese first arrived for multi-year contracts.

Anti-Japanese sentiment in Peru swelled as the Japanese community (Nikkei) improved economically. This led to the 1940 lootings which included physical assaults and deaths. Hundreds of families lost their properties and half left for Japan (reference).

Like in other countries, Peru also treated Japanese Peruvians like the enemy. In the US, more than 120,000 were incarcerated; Hawai’i, 2,500.  President Roosevelt’s initial order was for 160,000, according to this Time article by Richard B Frank. By then, the Japanese accounted for a significant portion of the islands’ population.

Japanese cultural, educational, and religious institutions and places of businesses in the territory of Hawai’i were shuttered. Those not imprisoned had additional restrictions placed on them. It’s telling that no one of Japanese descent was found guilty and many volunteered to fight in the war. Honouliuli Internment Camp on O’ahu was made a National Historic Site in 2019.

In agreement with the US government, Peru arrested and shipped leaders of Nikkei to internment camps in the US. Properties were seized and confiscated. After the end of WWII, a small fraction was allowed to return to Peru. Many remained in the US and became naturalized American citizens. Many more went to Japan.

Post-war recovery and integration have led to stronger ties to Peru as their homeland and greater acceptance.