cover photo of Mt Fuji by Daniel Hehn
There is a saying in Japan – “You are wise to climb Fuji once and a fool to climb it twice.” (or some variation)
Each year over 200,000 people climb Mt. Fuji. About 30% are foreigners such as myself. 12,390 feet of volcano.
Mount Fuji is a cultural and spiritual symbol of Japan that the world over understands. This famous lone peak has been the subject of poetry and art through the ages, never mind all the postcards. It is also the “mecca” of pilgrimages.
For me, it was a uniquely Japanese experience, even if the majority of the Japanese haven’t actually made the climb.
Off to the Starting Point
Early Monday morning I was at the Shinjuku bus station for the 2 1/2 hour trip to gogome (5th station), Kawaguchiko 5th station on the Subaru line. This is the most popular starting place. The traditional way, the way of the pilgrims, is to begin with purification and prayers before beginning the climb from the base. Instead I wanted to take it easy, to ease my way up the changing altitude and get to Fujisan Hotel at the 8th station before dark. Then, after a meal and a nap, continue onward to reach the top for the sunrise.
At gogome, I bought a walking stick (to get the souvenir insignia burnt into it at the stations), used the loo, and took some pictures before heading out. Instead of a slow steady climb I immediately faced steep stretches. Luckily it was overcast and relatively cool which made it more comfortable.
Knowing the timeline, I chose a leisurely pace and rested often on the mist-filled trail, drinking copious amounts of water to keep hydrated. With horrid images and actual experiences of hole-in-the-ground toilets, I even braved the bathroom at one point. I was very much relieved (pun intended) to be inside a cedar-filled cabin and an ultra clean bathroom. That was the last bathroom before the 8th and last station.
The Climb up Mt Fuji
The climb was a solo one, single file. I focused on where I was stepping, especially on the more vertical passes. That walking stick and the chain link handrails really helped.
Sometimes I forgot it was the side of a volcano. There was actually very little to look at, except stubborn tuffs of tiny plants and flowers here and there. Otherwise it was red rock all around.
On the way, many people were resting on the side, sucking on their oxygen cans. Altitude sickness affects people differently and being fit or young isn’t a guarantee against it. I’ve heard it described as kryptonite to Superman – life draining. And I remember my mom’s stories of her trip to Tibet, where she spent most of the time lying down, feeling terrible and this is a Migraine Warrior, no stranger to debilitating conditions. So to be honest, I too wondered how I would respond. Thankfully I wasn’t, reaching the 8th station as the sun was setting. And my tummy grumbling in protest.
The Rest before the Last Push
¥5,400 got you a sleeping slot in what was essentially a communal bed. Being the end of the official climbing season, it was not so crowded that night and there was plenty of space. I wouldn’t have cared anyway as I was looking forward to sleep.
For me, the hardest part was the final climb. Getting up at 2am wasn’t the problem; I had slept for nearly six hours. It was the cold and the trail was crowded and narrow. With so many more people joining the climb then to see the sunrise, the going was very slow and often I was just waiting to move.
The Final Climb
As I made my early morning climb in the dark, I joined the masses of people who chose to hike up in one go, timing it to meet the sunrise.
Whenever I stopped and it was often, I would look down the mountain and what a sight. It was beautiful. Snakes of light from the climbers’ flashlights lit up the mountainside, and reminded me we were all together. Even if we were each lost in our own sleepy thoughts, we were united in our goal of climbing Mt Fuji and seeing the sun rise in this Land of the Rising Sun.
And it was all worth it – the climb and the freezing cold. The miso ramen at the summit definitely made the wait more durable. Nothing tasted more delicious! Well, maybe the third bowl did.
While I waited I visited the temple for a prayer and bought protective charms or omamori. I realized how fast the crowd was gathering so I made my way over to see the sunrise.
The Sunrise
The sunrise was simply breathtaking. It really was beautiful. The sun bathed the skies with a golden hue, mingling with a darkness that turned from deep black to sea blue. We had an unobstructed view of heaven and earth. All the rummaging and chatting had dissolved into silence as everyone stood at the edge of this most sacred mountain, beheld in the palm of God. Awashed in the beauty and reverence of the moment. Then daylight broke through and it was time to move on, even if somewhat reluctantly. Life is a cycle and we cycle with it.
The climb down was still steep, though the path did wind down more gently. The loose dirt path zig zagged the whole way and people were literally slipping all over. By the time I got down my toes felt as if they were crushed. Then there were those who just ran down the hill, screaming and not braking. Another way, apparently, is to ride down on mountain bikes. This, I did not see and can’t even fathom the climb up with the bikes.
By the time I arrived at gogome again, I was slightly pink from the sun. My legs felt like jelly, like I had walked for days. Exhausted and satisfied, I had climbed my first mountain and the day was still young and full of promise.
But I think once is, after all, enough.
I climbed Mt Fuji near the end of the climbing season (July to early September) in 2006. This trip also included taking the Shinkansen from Tokyo to Hiroshima, staying in Kyoto, Hiroshima, and that mystical island of Miyajima. In several places I chose ryokans over hotels which was a beautiful cultural experience. In Miyajima I communed with deer, in Shibuya and Harajuku I buzzed with the craziness, hung out voyeuristically with Cosplay boys and girls, and witnessed some of the unique Japanese offerings.
2025 Update – there are many more stay options, including a private capsule at the 7th station. A capsule stay including dinner costs ¥17,800. A stay at Taiyokan mountain hut is ¥10,500 and ¥17,800 including dinner. It’s at 3,090 meters and located at the 7th station on the Subashiri trail. We stayed at the eight station, the Fujisan Hotel. You can check for availability and book your stay at the Japanese Mountain Huts.