I love taking the hop-on-hop-off bus when I visit a city. It’s an easy way to relax, while getting an overview and a sense of the city. Some of the sights I saw while walking the city. Copenhagen is a great city to walk.
Little Mermaid
The Little Mermaid (Den lile Havfrue) is one of the most popular sights for visitors to Copenhagen. This famous statue is located by the Langelinie promenade. It sits on several boulders just off the stoney beach. A common comment is how small the statue is. It is indeed just four feet tall.
Sculptor Edvard Eriksen was commissioned by Carl Jacobsen, the son of Carlsberg’s founder, after he saw the ballet of the fairytale. The head of the statue was modelled after the ballerina Ellen Price and the body, the sculptor’s wife.
Unveiled in 1913, the bronze statue depicts the Little Mermaid transforming into human, still with a mermaid tail.
The Langelinie was the first promenade, with a beach and park built for the wealthy merchant class which had residences there. An 1848 uprising led to the area becoming public. It then became part of the area to create a free port. Today Langelinie Park includes monuments, statues such as The Little Mermaid, and fountains such as Gefion Fountain.
National Gallery of Denmark
Designed in Renaissance Revival Style, the National Gallery of Denmark was completed in 1896. Located in the city centre, Statens Museum for Kunst (SMK) is Denmark’s largest art gallery. Its collection includes both Danish and international works from seven centuries. Provenance includes the Danish royal family.
National Gallery of Denmark Sølvgade 48-50, 1307 København K
Gefion Fountain
South of Kastellet or the Citadel, along the waterfront, is the beautiful Gefion Fountain. Completed in 1908, it’s a magnificent fountain with three basins. On top sits a bronze statue of the Norse goddess Gefjon and four oxen. Gefjon (“GEV-yoon”), sometimes seen as Gefjun, Gefiun, or Gefion, is the goddess of fertility, abundance, prosperity, and agriculture. From the Norse word gefa (“to give”), the goddess is also known as “Generous One.” She is an ancient goddess and her mythology is told through Prose Edda, written or compiled by Icelandic historian Snorri Sturluson in the thirteenth century.
Disguised as a homeless woman, she was travelling in Sweden. King Gylfi, ruler of today’s Sweden, agreed to her taking as much land as four oxen could plow in one day and night. She called her sons from Jötunheimr, the realm of giants. She then turned them into oxen, their work leaving a great depression in the land. This is the creation myth of Lake Mälaren, the third-largest freshwater lake in Sweden. The earth the oxen removed was thrown into the sea. This is the island of Zealand, where Copenhagen is located.
The word Jotunheim may sound familiar to you, those who are Marvel fans or have seen the Thor movies. The word “jotun” means giant and “jotunheim”, home of the giant. There are some mythological elements that are correctly portrayed in the movies. It is the land of Giants. Contrary to the movies, which have it as only Frost Giants in a realm of cold and wind, Jotunheim is inhabited by different kinds of giants. The land there is wild with mountainous landscapes. It is in the periphery, beyond the orderly and civilized.
Statues
Copenhagen is a city full of statues. At the centre of the city is the Højbro Plads, located near the famous shopping streets of Amagertorv and Strøget.
Equestrian Statue of Absalon
Here at Højbro Plads the equestrian statue of Absalon stands. The statue faces Christiansborg Palace, where the Danish Parliament sits. (Though the head is turned to face City Hall.) Its unveiling in 1902 commemorates the 700th anniversary of Absalon’s death.
In 1167, Bishop Absalon (c. 1128 – 1201) ordered a castle to be built to protect the hamlet. First called Kaufmanne Hafen (Merchants Harbour), it was the site of today’s city of Copenhagen. The Danish Bishop/Archbishop grew up with King Valdemar I (1131-1182) of Denmark and became a close advisor. He played a key role in early Danish history, including expansion in the Baltic Sea. The school of fish and wavy lines on the statue’s frieze symbolize the very important herring-fish. The export of salted fish sparked the growth of the settlement that became an empire. And so Absalon is remembered for being an influential stateman, churchman, and warrior/commander.
The square, Højbro Plads, is named for the first High Bridge (Højbro), built in 1167 to connect Bishop Absalon’s castle to the mainland and city. That bridge has since been replaced over the years. Opposite his statue is the present-day bridge, which goes over Slotsholms-Canal.
The 1917 excavation of the palace led to the discovery of the remains of Absalon’s castle. His bishop ring of gold and blue sapphire, removed from his grave by archaeologists in 1536, can be seen at the National Museum. His grave at the old monastery at Sorø, an hour train ride from Copenhagen, is open to visitors.
Neptune & Mercury
At the northern end of Larsens Plads is Nordre Toldbod. The customs house located here was where merchant taxes were collected. There is still a gate at the former port, Free Port, inaugurated in 1884. On the pillars are zinc statues of Mercury and Neptune, both by Carl Christian Peters, a sculptor from the 19th century. These pillars were also used as guardhouses.
Left: Nordre Toldbod by Danish photographer Frederik Riise (1863-1933) from the Frederik Riise Collection, Museum of Copenhagen. Public Domain. Right: My photo of Neptune on top of the pillar taken in 2015. Copyright.
Walking Copenhagen
From Radisson Blu, it was easy to see Copenhagen. With such great weather, I enjoyed exploring the area between the hotel and Strøget.
Black Diamond
I first saw the Black Diamond Library from the canal tour I took with my friend. I returned on my own to visit the Old Reading Room. Located at the waterfront on Slotsholmen, The Black Diamond opened in 1999. It is an extension of the Royal Library. Its architecture is difficult to miss, with its gigantic polished black granite facade. It is also located to the Circle Bridge, which hadn’t opened when I was there. Reading about it now (2025), it’s an enjoyable walk over it. From the canal boat, I was taken by the design and materials.
The National Museum of Photography is also in the Black Diamond, and it was one of the areas I visited. Other facilities include exhibition spaces, café, garden, and the Queen’s Hall, primarily for chamber music and jazz concerts, theatre events, and conferences. The interior, so different from the exterior, is light-filled.
The Old Reading Room retains its design since its inauguration in 1906. Chair No 9 was Vladimir Lenin’s permanent seat.
“Here and Now”
“Here and Now” / Lige Nu is a photo exhibition by the Danish Parliament to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the 1915 amendment of the Constitutional Act. The last amendment was in 1953. The original constitution was signed June 5, 1849. Denmark was no longer an absolute monarchy and became a constitutional monarchy. Each year June 5 – and democracy – is celebrated with activities such as flag-raising ceremonies and gatherings.
After visiting the Black Diamond library, I walked through the complex of museums and gardens toward the city centre. And I came upon this travelling exhibition in the Rigsdag Courtyard at Chrisiansborg. It features five photographers – Maria Fonfara, Kent Klich, Charlotte Haslund-Christensen, Sofie Amalie Klougart, and Lærke Posselt – who explored five themes, Activists, Rights, Equality, Participation, and Fellowship, respectively.
As with many passerbys and visitors, I spent some time looking at the thought-provoking images.
When my friend and I were at Nyhavn, we also came across photographs by Mike Kollöffel. A selection from the book and exhibition, Widows – Voices from Guatemala.
There are so many ways to see Copenhagen. While one bus tour, one canal tour, and walking about town cannot do it justice, these few days were a solid introduction to this beautiful, picturesque, welcoming, and complex city. Like with any first-time destinations, for most people, the pull is to the most famous attractions and landmarks. These places I also went to, not all. What I enjoy about any traveling is the unexpected – the art exhibition I walked into while looking for the way back to the hotel, the timing to be in town for a great concert, the detours that aren’t detours at all…