Some places call to you. Spain is that for me. I’m not sure when it started. My 2013 summer trip to Barcelona and Madrid had memorable highlights. I’d love to take up on my godparents’ invitation to stay at their place in southern Spain.

I flew into Barcelona about a week after returning home from the Eastern & Orient Express rail trip. It was just enough time to check on my dogs Lou and Abby and re-pack.

(Article updated June 6, 2025)

Tibidabo

Tibidabo is the highest peak in the Serra de Collserola range. It’s about a 20-minute car ride from the city centre. On Barcelona’s tallest mountain is an amusement park, built in 1899. You can still see some of its original attractions. One is Museu d’Autòmates (Mechanical Museum), which includes forty pieces from the 19th and 20th centuries. At the peak is the famous Roman Catholic Church, Sagrat Cor. I didn’t get the chance to visit it; the photos show a magnificent example of architecture. This mountain is believed to be where the devil tempted Jesus while he was on his 40-day fast.

The Gran Hotel La Florida

On my trip, I stayed at The Gran Hotel La Florida. It’s now METT Barcelona. This was a beautiful modern boutique hotel atop Tibidabo’s Hill. With its beautiful rooms, wellness centre, inside/outside stainless steel pool, garden terraces, and a stunning view of the city, this oasis provided the perfect blend of relaxation, luxury, and retreat. The Gran Hotel La Florida really was a stunning and refined elegance.

From the hotel website, it looks like the new hotel, METT Barcelona, has transformed the interiors. The structure has been retained. Looking at the rooms and suites photos, I’m left with a feeling of disappointment. The room I stayed at was wonderfully appointed and beautiful. The rooms now look like many other hotels. And I wonder if they still have that really cool stainless steel pool.

My room had a balcony that overlooked the beautiful landscape. I had breakfast in the sun-filled restaurant on the main floor and I sat by the huge window with a view of the skyline. Then often I went out onto the terrace deck. Sitting in a lounge chair by the pool to sit in a lounge chair, I took in the beautiful vista and enjoyed sweet solitude. I loved how removed this hotel on the hilltop was from everything. Looking at the swimming pool, I only wished I had packed swimwear.

While my room and the hotel were modern and bright, there were places and moments during my stay that I did not feel entirely comfortable. I later discovered that the hotel had served as a military hospital during the civil war. True, this was also a beloved spot of Barcelona society, visited by celebrities such as Ernest Hemingway, Rock Hudson, George Sanders, and James Stewart. I’m sure some of that glitz and gaiety were breathed into the walls after it again became a hotel in 1950. Still, when you’re sensitive, you pick things up, you feel things.

Around Barcelona

La Sagrada Familia

Probably Antoni Gaudí’s greatest work is the emblem of Barcelona. And Catalan modernism. La Sagrada Familia. A masterpiece not yet completed. When I was there in 2013, the projected completion date was 2026. This would be the 100th anniversary of Gaudí’s death. By the way, his tomb is onsite. Now as I update this article in 2025, that date has been pushed further out to 2032.

The idea of La Sagrada Familia did not originate with Gaudí himself. It was the founder of the Spiritual Association of Devotees of Saint Joseph. Josep Maria Bocabella. It was 1866. Construction, however, did not begin for almost twenty years. Gaudí took over the project a year after that.

With his belief that “the architect of the future will imitate nature, as it is the most rational, lasting, and economical method”, Gaudí’s design had the curves and shapes that still capture our imagination. The creative force for La Sagrada Familia would move through him for most of his life. He was only 31 years old at the start.

La Sagrada Familia may be a tourist destination for many. It is a basilica, a place of worship. The Archdiocese of Barcelona holds morning and evening mass on Sundays and exceptional masses by invite. On June 10, there will be a mass commemorating the 99th anniversary of Gaudiís death. Here’s the calendar of the worship events at La Sagrada Familia.

You may have noticed that La Sagrada Familia missing from the photos. This monumental cathedral is definitely on the must-see list, even if you aren’t into architecture. And I am.

You don’t see any photos of La Sagrada Familia, even though it’s probably the most iconic landmark in Barcelona and an UNESCO World Heritage Site, simply, because it was unbelievably crowded. I was in the area a few times and none of those times did I have energy for it. I did see it from a comfortable distance, with all its scaffolding. So maybe the next time.

Other Gaudí Work to Visit

Even though I didn’t step inside, or get close to, La Sagrada Familia, I did see other works by Gaudí. Here are his other works also designated as a World Heritage Site in Barcelona – Güell Palace, Park Güell, Casa Milà, Batlló House, and Vicens House.

Count Eusebi Güell Bacigalupi (1846 – 1918) became a life-long friend of Gaudí’s after they met at the World Fair (Paris, 1878). Made a Count by King Alfonso XIII in 1908, Eusebi was also the renowned architect’s patron. He commissioned Palau Güell (Güell Palace) and Park Güell, among many other works.

The 2023 documentary, Negrergs: La Catalunya Esclavista (Slavers: Catalonia and the Slave Trade), was shown on public TV in Catalan TV. -> Watch the documentary about Catalonia’s role in the Slave Trade. Slavery in Spain was abolished comparatively late in 1886. (Haiti, 1804; Mexico, 1829; Britain, 1833; France and Denmark, 1848; Netherlands, 1863; US, 1865, Brazil, 1888). In his article, Route through slave-owning Barcelona, David León Himelfarb takes readers through the city’s buildings and landmarks related to this topic.

The wealth of Eusebi Güell’s father and father-in-law, and so his own, stemmed from slave trading in Cuba. As Gaudí’s main patron, without his commissions and wealth, what legacy would have come from Gaudí’ otherwise.

Güell Palace

Palau Güell was built between 1886 and 1890 and is one of Gaudí’s early works. Located in the Raval district, close to the Rambla, one of the most known streets in Barcelona. Consisting architectural and design elements found in his later work, Palau, however, differs in how little light it has within.

In 1945, Mercé Güell Lopéz donated the palace to the city to be preserved for cultural purposes. Mercé was one of Eusebi’s ten children.

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Palau Güell | C. Nou de la Rambla 3-5 | virtual tour

Park Güell

Park Güell did not begin as a park; rather, it was a residential project for aristocratic families. Count Eusebi Güell commissioned Gaudí to design it. This was an unrealized venture, given how remote the area was at the time. Of the two houses built, one became Gaudí’s home. It is now the Gaudí House Museum (Casa Museu Gaudí). Eventually the family gave the land to the city.

Located in the Gracia district on Carmel Hill, Park Güell is 19 hectacres, making it one of the city’s largest green spaces. It’s been a public park since 1926. Some of the park’s highlights you may be familiar with include the mosaic Dragon (Park Güell Lizard), one of the many animal sculptures Gaudí created. This guardian stands at the stairs by the main park entrance, near Concierge Pavilion.

Casa Milà   

Also known as La Pedrera, this is Gaudí’s work that I saw while in Barcelona. Just walking in town.

Built between 1906 and 1910, Casa Milà was commissioned by Pedro Milá i Camps. Part of his naturalist period, this beautiful building demonstrates the organic forms we associate with Gaudí.

Images from Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons: (left) Sketch by Antoni Gaudí (1906) and a photo from 1911.

Casa Milà is located at Passeig de Gràcia, 92. In the 1900s, this street was the home to the wealthy and iconic buildings. The new home’s construction faced controversy and obstacles, including legal problems. Gaudí went over budget and contravened building codes and bylaws.

Milà’s widow, Roser Segimon, sold the building in 1946 and stayed onsite until her death in 1964. After being restored, in 1996 this iconic building was opened to the public.

On the La Pedrera’s Untold Stories website, you can discover more about its history and stories.

Casa Batlló

Given complete freedom, Gaudí transformed the building originally built by one of his professors. Located at 43 on Paseo de Gracia, Casa Batlló has changed ownership since the 1950s from the Batlló family through various people to the Bernat family who restored it. Opened to the public in 1995, like Gaudí’s other works, Casa Batlló remains one of the top visited places in Barcelona.

Restoration work continues, and has been unearthing hidden original elements.

Casa Vicens

A project that took from 1883 to 1885, Casa Vicens is Gaudí’s first major commission and the first home he designed.

When I went to take the measurements for the site, it was totally with these little yellow flowers, which I adopted as an ornamental motif for the ceramics. I also found a vibrant palm tree, and the palm fronds represented in iron cover the grids of the grille to the entrance of the house.

Antoni Gaudí (source: Bergós, Joan. Gaudí. L’home i l’obra. Editorial Ariel, Barcelona, 1954 via Casa Vicens website

Palau Güell | Güell Palace | Casa Mila | Casa Batlló | Casa Vicens

Picasso Museum

Because of the long lines, I also skipped the Picasso Museum. The photo of street art (above) was taken close to the museum. So maybe no museums here in Barcelona…there is still Madrid in my itinerary.

Many people associate Picasso with Paris because of his years there. The Spanish painter was born in Malaga and moved to Barcelona as a teenager. He continued to visit this city, which his family still called home. From 1919, Picasso began donating work to Barcelona, where he also had a couple of exhibitions.

Over the years, ties warmed between Picasso and the city that calls him one of their own and in 1963 the Picasso Museum opened. The core collection at that time came from Picasso’s friend and secretary, Jaume Sabartés. To this, in 1970, Picasso donated all his work held by his family. The museum today has a permanent collection of 5,000 pieces. This includes different media, academic studies, and sketchbooks.

Shopping for Espadrilles

What I did go looking for was La Manual Alpargatera, Barcelona’s oldest espadrilles shop. Finding it was the easy part; getting service was another story. It was so crowded it was overwhelming. It did give me ample time to browse. Inside, shelves from floor to ceiling were stocked with this Spanish iconic shoe in different colours and designs. Despite the long wait, I lingered in the shop and I happily left with a few pairs of espadrilles in shades of olive.

While espadrilles have been glamourized, this enduring fashion accessory hails from 14th-century peasants living in the Spanish part of the Pyrenees. The word espadrilles comes from espardenya, a Catalan word for the shoes made with coiled rope that they wore.

The espadrille was made famous by the cool fashion of icons and movie stars of the 1940s, 50s, 60s, and 70s. In each of these decades, someone famous, from Lauren Bacall to Diana Keaton, brought its casual “it” factor to the masses.

Restaurant 7 Portes

The building Pòrtics d’en Xifré that houses this restaurant dates back to the mid 19th century. Commissioned by a Catalan business man who wanted something to resemble the squares of Paris, it became his residence, office, and a luxury café. 7 doors for the public, with an eighth for staff.

Café de les 7 Portes opened in 1836, becoming the popular Restaurant de les 7 Portes in 1929, where writers, politicians, and journalists met. Nobel Laureates, artists such as Picasso and Miró, and celebrities were among the patrons of this restaurant that still serves authentic food.

I saw this restaurant on a walk through the city and didn’t get to try its famous paella. However, I did step into Four Cats, Els Quatre Gats, which at the time I didn’t realize was the famous centre of modernist gathering. It operated as a café and cabaret between 1897 and 1903. I was just in the neighbourhood and was getting hungry and thought it looked interesting, with its art nouveau decorations. So I stayed for lunch.

METT Barcelona | La Sagrada Familia | Picasso Museum | La Manual Alpargatera | Restaurant 7 Portes | 4 Gats | Tibidabo