Norway Itinerary
Stockholm-Oslo-Bodø on Scandinavian Airlines
Bodø – Scandic Havet (1 night)
Early ferry to Moskenes, Lofoten Islands
Hamnøy, Reine – Eliassen Rorbuer (3 nights) with rental car pickup at the pier
Bus to Svolvær to board the Hurtigruten (1 night) to Tromsø – City Hotel (4 nights)
Bus from Tromsø to Bodø – Scandic (1 night)
Train from Bodø to Trondheim – Scandic Bakklandet (1 night)
Flight from Trondheim to Oslo – Grand Palace (3 nights)
Flight from Oslo to Copenhagen
Quick links :: Bodø | Lofoten Islands | Å | Vestvågøya | Hamnøy | Svolvær
Bodø – Gateway to Lofoten Islands
North of the Arctic Circle, Bodø is the capital of the Nordland County. It is an university town and is known for the art scene and for Saltstraumen, one of the world’s strongest tidal currents. While the town is pretty compact and flat, it’s surrounded by nature reserves and mountains, some 120 peaks over 700m.
I flew in from Stockholm via Oslo. (Good to know :: My luggage was not checked all the way through to Bodø – I had to pick up my luggage for the transfer.)
I chose Bodø to stay the night to catch an early ferry ride to the Lofoten Islands. I took a taxi to my hotel and quickly checked in. The first thing I did was kick off my shoes and socks and sat in the chair looking out the big windows. Because I was north of the Arctic Circle, the sun would not set for a few more months. The light playing on the water was hypnotic.
Walking into the Midnight Sun
After staring out at the shimmering seascape from my room for quite some time, I took a quick shower before going out for food.
(Be sure to book a room overlooking the water. If you can’t, maybe grab a drink at the bar or a meal at the restaurant on the 18th floor. The Scandic Havet is the tallest building in Bodø and offers amazing views.)
It was late and not much was opened. So I grabbed the healthiest thing I could find at the convenience shop. I also bought some water and snacks before heading out to Rønvikfjellet, where a now-abandoned building sits. This was once a restaurant that opened in the summer and judging from the reviews, it sounded quite good. The hotel front desk recommended this walk to Keiservarden and I had no idea what was in store. At approximately 1,200 feet above sea level, “The Emperor’s Cairn”, named after German Emperor Wilhelm II who visited 1891, it offered a 360° view.
I walked through the town, up the hill, another hill, higher and higher, further and further away, all the while wondering where I was headed. The directions were easy enough, though I did begin to wonder if I misheard due to travel fatigue. I wasn’t worried since I was basically walking across town. Plus with the Midnight Sun, I didn’t have to worry about getting lost in the dark. It wasn’t going to get dark, I reminded myself.
With food in my belly and a bottle of water in my hand, I got more energized as I went along. I was passively taking in the scenery, remembering various landmarks for the return.
At some point, I stopped by a lake. A pair of ducks swam over, probably expecting food. I had none, and they made new trails across the water. I wound round and round up the mountain, past parking lots of cars and finally to beneath where the building was. Suddenly I was there.
Isn’t it interesting that in life, even with all the discipline, perseverance, and effort, we are surprised when we arrive somewhere?
Some people were already there filming a music video and what an atmosphere. The music, the laughter, the Midnight Sun. I was only sure I found the right place when I saw the view. It was incredible and this sense of peace swelled from within. That moment, I felt full.
What is the Midnight Sun? According to the Nordic Visitor –
Scientifically speaking, the midnight sun is a natural phenomenon that occurs in far northerly latitudes — particularly at or above the Arctic Circle — during summer, when the earth’s axis is tilted more towards the sun. It peaks at the summer solstice, usually around the 21st of June each year.
At its peak, the sun does move position in the sky, but it does not dip completely below the horizon. Depending on how far north you travel, the period of non-stop daylight can last from a single day to nearly five months. In the town of Ilulissat in Greenland, for example, the midnight sun appears from mid-May to late July.
Travelling solo
People were amazed I did this month-long trip solo. I never once felt unsafe – it never even crossed my mind, though I knew better than to tell my dad what I was doing. He is a worry nut and he would have insisted on daily call-ins.
When the idea for this trip was formed, it was an entirely different trip to Sweden with a friend. My dad knew I was meeting up with a friend in Copenhagen. Plus I did invite him to Norway, where the ships for his company came from.
View from my hotel room (left); the hotel lobby when I checked in (right).
Bodø
I overnighted in Bodø primarily to catch the early morning ferry over to Moskenes on the Lofoten Islands. The first ferry felt the best one to be on and so I planned for a quiet and early night for a leisurely morning. I did not factor in doing anything else though I was happy to have gone on my walk. Being outside and going to the mountaintop felt great after a full day of travel. I was also excited for my first Midnight Sun experience in the Arctic.
The walk through the city and then on some rocky paths is do-able for anyone who is moderately fit. For the locals, it’s just a stroll with their dog. I met many along the way.
If you have more time, you may want to check out the Aviation Museum, Keiservarden mountain, the turquoise clear water and white sands of Mjelle beach, the Bodø Cathedral, and Bodin Medieval Church… and if you have much more time, time for day trips, there is Saltstraumen, Kjerringøy, and Åselidalen. Thanks for these tips from Bodø local Renate Sandvik.
More info Hike Rønvikfjellet | Aviation Museum | Hike to Keiservarden | Mjelle beach Bodø Cathedral | Bodin Medieval Church | Salstraumen | Kjerringøy | Hike to Åselidalen “Hidden Valley
Lofoten Islands
Eliassen Rorbuer (3 Nights) – Hamnøy Reine
The Lofoten Islands is an archipelago of seven islands. You can get there by car, ferry, or plane.
Getting to the Lofoten Islands
There are two ferries from Bodø, reachable by plane or train from Oslo or by ferry from Bergen. The car ferry sails to Moskenes (www.thn.no) in about three to four hours and the passenger ferry to Svolvær in three to five hours. The famous Hurtigruten also stops at Svolvær and Stamsund and can be booked port-to-port. To get back to the mainland, I boarded the Hurtigruten at Svolvær for Tromsø.
The Lofoten Islands have three airports – Harstad/Narvik, Solvær, and Leknes. Some of these flights have a layover in Bodø anyways. Flights take around three hours from Oslo.
The Lofoten Islands and the mainland are connected by E10, with endpoints in Luleå in Sweden and Å in Lofoten. The road on the mainland has lots of turns and twists and can be rather narrow. You can also rent a car in Bodø and ferry it over or rent a car on the islands. I rented a car for pick up at the Moskenes pier.
About 100km above the polar circle, with dramatic landscapes, this is God’s country, pulsating with primal energy. Brightly painted cabins and villages dot the islands, where sea and sky seem to merge into undulating blues. It’s no surprise that this stunning place is a dream for hikers, climbers, kayakers, outdoorsy people, photographers …
There is quite a variety of towns and hamlets to choose from. My base was cabin #15 at the Eliassen Rorbuer in Hamnøy, Moskenes. This western part of the islands has wonderful landscapes, with the very famous, very photographically recognizable, and arguably the most scenic fishing village of Reine.
The rorbu is a traditional wooden fisherman’s cabin. The first one was built in the early 1100s to house the rising numbers of fishermen who came to partake in the fertile cod fishing grounds in the Lofoten Islands. From the 1960s, these colourful cabins were rented out to tourists and continue to celebrate Lofoten’s longest-running tradition. Many have been renovated to suit modern travellers, now with indoor plumbing and even a full kitchen. Gone is the rustic charm and while it is not what the fishermen of the past once had, a stay at a rorbu is a treat.
More info Ferry to Lofoten Islands | Eliassen Rorbuer
Å
After a miscommunication and a delay, I picked up my car at the empty Moskenes pier and headed to the village of Å (pronounced something like “oh” and also the last letter in the Norwegian alphabet). I thought I’d check out the sights while my cabin was being readied.
Å is at the most southern part on Moskenesøya. Once an important fishing port, now a tourist destination. I hadn’t looked into seeing this little town and was happy to. The crowds were already there when I arrived in my rental car. It was easy still to find parking and then I just wandered around. Sometimes I trailed behind the guided tours.
Together we meandered to the end point, rocky cliffs that overlook the sea. Fresh from Singapore, it still felt windy and cold though the sun was out. It certainly was warm enough for other. I spotted a couple who disappeared down the cliff, for skinny dipping in the pools below.
With some time on my hands, I wandered around the village. There are a couple of museums which I gave a miss. I wanted to be outside, in the fresh Arctic air, breathing in the sunshine. I found a nice spot on a bench and feasted on freshly-baked bread with a cup of tea. The simple things in life.
Vestvågøya for an amazing Midnight Sun
That night I had an early dinner at my Lofoten home base and spent a relaxing evening with a short nap and light reading.
I googled possible spots to see the Midnight Sun. Deciding on Vestvågøya in Leknes, about an hour away, I headed out after 10pm giving myself plenty of time to stop along the way. Everywhere I looked, I was met with jaw-dropping scenes, lit by the Midnight Sun.
Aside from very few cars and a motorbike here and there, I felt like the only soul on earth. Some people may have felt forlorn. For me, this was a road trip paradise – no traffic, amazing landscapes, the ability to stop anywhere, anytime. Without the foreboding atmosphere of a zombie movie, the feeling was decidedly levitating and elevating. I felt the pulse of freedom on every breath, with don’t-know-why giggles escaping as I pressed the gas pedal.
Down the single-lane road, through the 899m Uttakleiv Tunnel, and out into the light of the coast. I parked my little rental amongst the vans, cars, and trailers. Some were vacant; no doubt, the photographers were already down at the water’s edge. Others were occupied by couples who had shuttered their mobile home by the time I returned from my foray into the high winds at the beach.
With my toque and windbreaker hoodie tight around my head and gloves for manoevuring the tripod and camera settings, I headed to the sea, over sand and boulder. The winds rolled fiercely in and lashed at my face. It was glorious.
When I walked around the area, I found some interesting tourist info. Traces of settlements from 500 to 600AD have been found at Uttakleiv. Drawn there by fishing and land for grazing, people came by sea, foot, and horseback over the mountain.
Here is some info on photographing the Midnight Sun from Fstoppers and Hurtigruten.
In and Around Hamnøy
While I had the car – somehow I managed to book it for more than a day last minute – I jetted around the area. I had afternoon tea at Friisagården and a lunch of grilled stockfish at Ramberg Gjestegård.
When you are in the Lofoten Islands, trying stockfish is a must. Cod was Norway’s biggest export for a very long time. Air-dried cod, stockfish, was the food of the Vikings, sustenance for their voyages. When you drive around the islands, you can find these racks and remnants of fish heads on the ground. In the winter, these racks are full, with cod coming to the Lofoten for the warmer waters.
Fishing is hard, harder now still with declining schools of fish. You get a sense of the toughness in Norwegian stock, no less on these islands where fishing was the primary way of life, paying rent in fish. There is a Stockfish Museum at Å if you want to know more.
Three nights really isn’t enough time for the Lofoten Islands so I was discerning with where I went. This included the beach at Flakstadøya and SUP in the arctic ocean. I underestimated my mobility first time being in a wet suit, and a rental at that. The waves were strong and the thought of falling into that startling cold water was enough to keep me kneeling most of the time. Plus I didn’t want to lose my contact lenses. Now thinking about it, I wish I hadn’t been so chicken shit and rational and just gone for it. I guess I’d have to wait until the next time I went to the Arctic.
The Lofoten Islands offer a variety of accommodation options, including camping. Because I was in Scandinavia for a month, visiting a variety of places, I packed light and flexible. Already hauling a tripod, and now a blanket for Luna, I didn’t want to add to the load with camping gear and proper hiking boots. I also wanted a rorbuer experience.
Cabin #15 at Eliassen Rorbuer was a superior twin bed cottage, one of the smallest available cabins. It was more than ample for one person. The key was the kitchenette to prep food. On the way back from Å I picked up some groceries for quick meals.
I didn’t come with supplies – thankfully bed linens are available as an extra charge. The booking manager Katrine was very helpful, with directions, bus schedules, and even arranging the car. It certainly made booking last minute smooth and easy.
I also tried the restaurant at Eliassen Rorbuer. It was known for serving fresh fish. As I arrived late for dinner, choices were few. Still my dinner was fulfilling. I enjoyed sitting alone upstairs, away from the crowds. Overlooking the cabins, watching the colours change like watercolour, I slowly finished my dinner.
Staying at a rorbuer is a definitively Lofoten experience and Eliassen Rorbuer is a great find.
More info | Flakstadøya | Restaurant at Ramberg Gjestegård | Stockfish Museum
Svolvær
Svolvær was where I boarded the Hurtigruten to return to the mainland. To get there, the easiest way, since I didn’t have a car anymore, was to bus it from Hamnøy.
Conveniently, the bus stop was just across the road from Eliassen Rorbuer. I remember standing roadside listening to the birds. Eyes closed, I could hear the faint church bells and a choir in the distance. It was Sunday. So quiet, so warm under the sun, without a care, relishing the simplicity of my travel plans. One road. One bus.
Svolvær is the big city in Lofoten, some 130 km from Hamnøy. It offers a variety of activities, accommodations, and dining. The North Norwegian Art Centre also brings together artists from around the world for the month-long Lofoten International Art Festival in September.
With nearly a full day in Svolvær, I checked my bags into a locker at the info centre and roamed the town. There were some lovely shops to browse. Everywhere I went in Scandinavia amazing art welcomed me. I fell in love with a beautiful pink porcelain cup that the North Norweigan Art Centre shop helped to post home for me. This lovely cup sits on my kitchen shelf and I savour my tea in it, so precious a souvenir of my time here.
After strolling around town, I walked across the bridge, away from the busier more touristy centre and into the quieter residential areas. I made my way towards Anker Brygge Rorbuer and to the edge of the water. Again, I was stunned by the amazing landscapes. Northern Norway has no shortage of these. Even watching tidal pools was a time warp.
Boarding time for the Hurtigruten was quite late so I stopped at Du Verdan for a meal. I sat by the window and had a view of the sea. It was a very busy restaurant and the food was delicious. There is something about summer and those numbered days of savouring the sun in northern countries. Being Canadian, I completely relate.
If you are driving or taking the bus into Svolvær, keep an eye out for the glass and steel installation by Dan Graham. Located about 25 km west in the direction of Leknes, this untitled piece is “a picture, an object and an architectonic form, but above all it is an event” (according to its description).
With its reflective, concave panorama wall, it creates a feast for the eye. We see simultaneously a landscape that could appear in any painting that takes the sublime landscape as its theme, but which in this unique moment is both present and depicted.
More info | Solvær | local bus info | Hurtigruten | Anker Brygge | Lofoten International Art Festival | Northern Norway Art Centre | Skulpturlandskap Nordland | Du Verdan